

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 













Planting 
Home Grounds. 



The American Elm—The most beautiful Tree that grows 







Planting Home Grounds 

The Beautifying of Home Grounds by the Plant¬ 
ing o/Trees, Shrubs, Plants and Flowers 
Suitable for Southern and Central 
Kansas and Vicinity. 




By Alfred MacDonald, 

H 

Director of Parks and Forestry,' 
City of Wichita, Kansas. 


& 


Published by the 

Board of Park Commissioners, 
COMMISSIONERS: 

L. W. Clapp Walter A. Parrott W. A. Vincent 


City of Wichita, Kansas. 

IT 17 




Copyright 1924 

By 

Alfred MacDonald 

Wichita, Kansas 


PRINTED AND BOUND BY 
THE GRIT PRINTERY. WICHITA. KANSAS 

©C1A8012S7 


AUG-974 


* 


r 


To 

Mr. L. W. Clapp 

A Faithful and Untiring 
Worker that the Beauty 
and Handiwork of Na¬ 
ture May Make Happy 
the Lives of Men, this 
Little Book is Gratefully 
Dedicated. 


& -j 

















































PREFACE. 


r | "'HIS little book has been published by the Board of 

Park Commissioners of the City of Wichita for the 
purpose of helping the people of Wichita and Central 
Kansas in the beautifying of their home grounds by the 
planting of trees, shrubs and flowers. 

There are really but a limited number of trees and 
plants which are entirely adapted to conditions existing 
here, the hot dry periods during our summer months 
are especially adverse for the kinds of trees and shrubs 
which thrive so well in the North and East, and the ex¬ 
treme and sudden changes of temperature in the winter 
are fatal to those which do so well a short distance south 
of here. 

There is little horticultural literature available which 
applies specifically to local conditions. 

In the improvement of the public parks in the City of 
Wichita the Board of Park Commissioners lias used 
numbers of different kinds of shrubs in various kinds of 
soils and under many different conditions. In the opera¬ 
tion of the Forestry Department the Board has directed 
the planting of shade trees in every part of the City. In 
the Municipal Nursery and Park Greenhouse thousands 
of ornamental plants and shrubs have been propagated. 

The results of these experiences have determined 
certain kinds of trees and ornamental plants which do 
well here, and the conditions under which they grow best. 
To disseminate such information and make it available 
to as many people as possible is the aim of this publi¬ 
cation. 


PREFACE 


viii 


Every tree, shrub and plant described and recom¬ 
mended herein has been grown in Wichita under the di¬ 
rection and observation of the writer. It has not been 
the intention to publish a complete list of trees and orna¬ 
mental plants which do well here, and doubtless there 
are a number of successful ones which are not included. 
Rather it has been the intention to describe a few which 
have proven successful, and in some cases condemn 
others which are frequently planted but which are not 
adapted. 

The writer wishes to acknowledge that this book has 
been made possible through the efforts and cooperation 
of Mr. L. W. Clapp, President of the Board of Park Com¬ 
missioners of the City of Wichita. A great deal of the 
information contained herein has been obtained through 
association with Mr. Clapp, who has been a pioneer in 
this City in the beautifying of home grounds, and the 
leader in Wichita for the expansion of Park, Forestry and 
Recreational facilities. 

Especial thanks are also due Messrs. Don S. Gray, 
C. A. Seward, W. A. Vincent, and Walter J. Parrott for 
their help and information. 

For many of the illustrations in the book the writer is 
indebted to the following: 

Henry A. Dreer, Inc., Philadelphia, Pa., illustrations 
on pages 22, 25, 29, 30, 33, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 
49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61, 80. 

The Wichita Eagle, illustrations on pages 12, 13, 14. 

D. Hill Nursery Company, Dundee, Ill., illustration on 
page 76. 

J. Horace McFarland Company of Harrisburg, Pa., il¬ 
lustrations on pages 2, 6, 10, 64. 

Thomas B. Meehan of Dresher, Pa., illustration on 
page 3. 


PREFACE 


ix 


L. W. Clapp, Wichita, Kansas, illustrations on pages 
5, 8, 9, 16, 78. 

Winn E. Holmes, Wichita, Kansas, illustration on 
page 18. 

The scientific names used herein follow the Stand¬ 
ardized Plant Names of the American Joint Committee on 
Horticultural Nomenclature, and The Standard Cyclo¬ 
pedia of Horticulture by L. H. Bailey. 

Alfred Macdonald. 

Wichita, Kansas, 

February 1, 1924. 


























. 




























































CONTENTS. 


Chapter Page 

1. Arrangement of Home Grounds.... 1 

2. Deciduous Trees..... .... . H 

3. Evergreen Trees.. 19 

4. Deciduous Shrubs. 22 

5. Vines and Climbers. 33 

6. Annual and Perennial Flowering Plants. 37 

7. Shrubs and Flowers for Special Purposes... 62 

8. Lawns and Lawn Grasses. 65 

9. Planting of Trees, Shrubs and Flowers...... 71 

10. Planting of Flower Seeds. 82 

11. Pruning Trees and Shrubs.. 85 

12. Insects and Diseases. . 90 
























































































■ 
































































































































































CHAPTER I. 

ARRANGEMENT OF HOME GROUNDS. 

/ T V HE principle that one should follow in planning the 
arrangement of his home grounds should be to have 
the grounds appear as natural as possible. Nature plants 
her shrubs in groups and masses, for in groups plants and 
shrubs can best protect one another against the elements. 
Nature’s lawns are great open areas with trees and shrubs 
grouped about the borders in curved contours. 

So in arranging the planting of home grounds, shrubs 
should always be planted in groups and masses and not 
as isolated specimens. Lawns should be open and ex- 



“Nature’s Lawns are great open areas with trees and shrubs grouped 
about the borders.” (Sim Park, Wichita.) 





2 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



“The charm of the Lawn is its spaciousness and appearance of expanse.” 

pansive with shrubs and trees grouped in the background 
and about the edges. Straight lines should be avoided in 
the arrangement of shade trees and shrubbery outlines. 

LAWNS. 

The chief charm of the lawn is its spaciousness and 
appearance of expanse. In arranging the lawn as an ap¬ 
proach to the house on an average City building site of 
50x140 feet one must very carefully avoid the introduc¬ 
tion of any feature which will reduce this appearance of 
expanse. 

Single and isolated shrubs and flower beds placed on 
a lawn tend to reduce this appearance of expanse and 
spaciousness, as do urns or pieces of garden furniture, 
especially when such features are placed in the center of 
the lawn area. 








ARRANGEMENT OF HOME GROUNDS 


3 


The larger the expanse of unbroken lawn the more 
extensive the grounds will appear. 

ARRANGEMENT OF SHADE TREES. 

In the case of the ordinary City building site shade 
trees may be very properly planted in the parking. In 
fact one of the reasons for providing the parking in the 
platting of a City is to provide a space for shade trees. 
The planting of shade trees in the parking is a consid¬ 
erate arrangement, for trees so planted not only furnish 
shade to the premises in front of which they are planted, 
but they also provide protection from the hot sun for 
pedestrians on the sidewalk and for everyone who uses 
the street. 

In the platting of most of our Southwestern Cities 
fairly adequate parking areas have been left between the 
street and the sidewalk for shade trees. But where the 
parking is very narrow (less than 5 feet) it is generally 
advisable to plant the shade trees just inside the property 
line. Under such conditions this arrangement is perhaps 



‘Shade Trees planted in the parking provide shade for everyone.” 





4 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


better for the development of the tree than cramping the 
roots in a narrow space between the street and sidewalk. 
Such an arrangement will not make the lawn appear 
foreshortened nor detract from its appearance or spa¬ 
ciousness providing the trees are placed close to the walk. 

To properly locate shade trees on one’s premises re¬ 
quires considerable thought and study. One must keep 
in mind that when he plants a tree he is making an im¬ 
provement which is to last for years, longer probably than 
he will live. The result of hastily and carelessly locating 
shade trees may be keenly regretted in the years to come. 

In the case of an ordinary City building site shade 
trees which are set inside the property should generally 
be planted at the side of the house or somewhat in the 
background. A shade tree should never be planted in the 
geometrical center of the lawn, for such an arrangement 
is unnatural and reduces the appearance of expanse of 
the lawn. Shade trees should not be arranged in straight 
rows inside the property or along the property line. Such 
an arrangement is unnatural and presents an incongruous 
appearance. 

A shade tree should never be located in such a posi¬ 
tion that the house will appear as if it had been divided 
into two equal parts by the planting of a shade tree 
squarely before the middle of it. 

The general tendency is to plant shade trees too close 
together. In the case of Elm, Hackberry, and Locust, 40 
feet apart is the proper distance. Pin Oak may be planted 
as close as 35 feet. Many persons plant shade trees as 
close as 25 feet apart, with the expectation of removing 
every other tree when they commence to crowd. In prin¬ 
ciple this plan is not bad practice, providing one has the 
moral courage to remove the surplus trees at the right 
time. 

Persons who wish to have a blue grass lawn should 


ARRANGEMENT OF HOME GROUNDS 


D 



“In the Winter when other trees are bare and brown, evergreens 
are most cheerful companions.” 


plan the arrangement of their shade trees so every por¬ 
tion of the lawn will be shaded from the hot sun espec¬ 
ially during the late afternoon. In so locating shade trees 
to protect blue grass one should always keep in mind that 
the trees should be located South and West of the area 
to be shaded. 

A convenient method of locating shade trees is to 
place stakes at the locations where one believes the trees 
should be planted, and then move the stakes about in vari¬ 
ous locations until a satisfactory grouping has been ar¬ 
ranged. 


ARRANGEMENT OF EVERGREENS. 

There is no class of trees or shrubs which will give as 
much pleasure all the year round as evergreens. Ever¬ 
greens are bright and cheerful companions when other 
trees and shrubs are bare and brown. During the long, 









6 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


cold Winter they give an eternal promise of the Spring 
that is surely coming. It is true that the initial cost of 
evergreens is greater than most trees and shrubs, but once 
planted they are long-lived and give an appearance of 
permanence. 

The low growing varieties of evergreens may be ar¬ 
ranged in groups as shrubs are arranged, especially in the 
nature of a foundation planting. The taller varieties such 
as Pine, Cedar and Arbor Vitae may be arranged as single 
specimens and located on the premises in the same way 
that shade trees are located. In such cases the taller ever¬ 
greens should not be placed in the center of the lawn, but 
should be placed at the rear or at the side of the house. 

A mistake frequently made in the planting of tall 
evergreens is to plant too many on a small area of ground. 
Too many tall evergreens about one’s home may give a 
sort of dismal, depressing appearance. 



“Groups of low-growing evergreens are very pleasing as a foundation planting.' 






ARRANGEMENT OF HOME GROUNDS 


7 


ARRANGEMENT OF SHRUBS. 

Shrubs should be planted in groups and masses and 
are especially attractive when planted close to buildings 
and near foundations. Masses of shrubs thus planted 
against foundations are called Foundation Plantings. 

In the arranging of shrubs in masses the tall varieties 
should be located in the rear of the group and the small 
ones in the foreground. 

Low growing perennials, such as Iris, Gaillardia, 
Hardy Phlox, and other flowering plants may be planted 
in front of the shrubbery masses and set in about the 
shrubs. They give color and life to the shrubbery masses 
when planted among the shrubs. 

Early flowering Tulips are also very attractive when 
planted in front of shrubbery masses, and placed here and 
there beneath the shrubs in the front of the group. 



“Shrubs should be planted in groups and masses, especially 
close to foundations and buildings.” 




8 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

The flower garden should be placed in the rear or at 
the side of the house. The flower garden should be a 
place of privacy and seclusion. The hurly-burly rush of 
street traffic, with its consequent noise and dust, is not at 
all consistent with the peace and tranquility of plants and 
flowers. 

The kinds and shapes of flower gardens may be in¬ 
finite in their variety. Every home owner has his own 
tastes about flowers and the selection and arrangement of 
flowers in the garden is one phase of the beautifying of 
home grounds which may be left to each individual’s 
inclinations. 

The perennial flowers of our grandmother’s garden 
are today, as then, the most satisfactory of garden flowers. 



Utility buildings are easily transformed into a feature of the home landscape by 
a composition back ground of trees and a partial screen planting of low growing 
evergreen and deciduous trees with shrubbery and perennials. Building above in¬ 
cludes garage, laundry, clothesyard, pump house and irrigation tank; Right margin, 
elms; Left, Scotch pine; Central background, honey locust and linden; Front, scarlet 
thorn, Austrian pine, persimmon, deutzia and weigelia; with fore-setting of anchusa, 
delphinium, iris, hardy pinks and in spring tulips and daffodils. 




ARRANGEMENT OF HOME GROUNDS 


9 


Perennials come up year after year without replanting, 
and we learn to look for them and to love them as we love 
old friends. 

Mixtures of annuals and perennials make a desirable 
flower garden. The perennials give a characteristic of 
permanence. Many perennials bloom in the late spring 
or early summer. Most annuals commence to bloom 
about the time the perennials are through blooming. 



Illustrating: a side lawn planting of deciduous trees, shrubbery and tall peren¬ 
nials flanking the open grass space, and a foreground section of boundary line plant¬ 
ing of oriental poppy, hemorocallis, funkia and speciosum lilies under the partial 
shade of a friendly pine tree. 





10 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Judicious combinations of both annuals and perennials 
in the same flower bed will insure blossoms all summer 
until frost. 


SCREEN PLANTING 

A very pleasing use of trees, shrubs and flowers is in 
screening from view unsightly corners or buildings on 
one’s home grounds. Evergreens are especially suitable 
for this purpose for they are green and dense all the year. 

A list of deciduous plants suitable for screen plant¬ 
ings is presented elsewhere in this book. 

Utility Buildings may be transformed into a feature 
of the home landscape by a background of trees, and by 
such an arrangement of shrubs and plants that the build¬ 
ings and utility features will blend into the surroundings. 



“A pleasing use of trees and shrubs is in a mass planting to screen 
from view buildings and unsightly corners.” 



CHAPTER II. 

DECIDUOUS TREES. 


American Elm. Ulmus americana. (White Elm, 
Water Elm) — The most beautiful tree that grows. A 
hardy, rapid growing tree, excellent for street and parking 
planting. Two types are found here—the common vase 
type which branches 15 to 25 feet from the ground into a 
majestic broad-spreading top; and the spreading type 
which branches low with a broad flat top often with con¬ 
torted twisted branches. Height 80 feet. (See frontis¬ 
piece for illustration.) 

Honey Locust. Gleditsia triacanthos .—A native tree 
with fine pinnate leaves, and generally with stout sharp 
thorns on the trunks and larger branches. Resists drought 
and is suitable for dry and sandy soils. Should not be 
confused with the Yellow or Black Locust which is not 
desirable. There is a thornless variety of Honey Locust 
which is recently becoming quite popular. An excellent 
shade tree. Height 80 feet. 

Pin Oak. Qaerciis palustris. — A beautiful symmetri¬ 
cal tree with the upper branches starting at right angles 
to the trunk, and with thin, delicate, deeply-cut leaves. Of 
all the Oaks the Pin Oak is the easiest to transplant. The 
foliage turns a beautiful deep red in the Fall and persists 
into the Winter. Height 60 feet. 

♦Deciduous: Trees which lose their leaves in Winter. 

♦In these descriptions the height indicated is the average 
height that such a tree will attain when mature. 





Pin Oak 































DECIDUOUS TREES 


13 


Hackberry. Celtis oc- 
cidentalis. (Nettle Tree, 
Sugar Berry)—A hardy 
native tree. The Hackberry 
resembles the Elm some¬ 
what but has a more up¬ 
right habit of growth than 
the Elm. The leaf of the 
Hackberry is smaller and 
more pointed than that of 
the Elm. The bark on old 
trunks develops character¬ 
istic ridges and excres¬ 
cences. Rivals the Elm as 
a street tree. Endures 
drought. Sometimes dif¬ 
ficult to get started. Height 
70 feet. 



Hackberry. 


^DECIDUOUS TREES FOR SPECIAL LOCATIONS AND 
PURPOSES. 

Ailanthus. Ailanthus glandulosa. (Paradise Tree, 
Tree of Heaven)—A rapid growing tree which will thrive 
in the poorest soil where other trees fail. Has tropical- 
looking foliage resembling that of sumach. Excellent for 
quick effects, for screens, and for narrow parkings. Short 
lived, about 20 years. Height 40 feet. 

Ginkgo. Ginkgo biloba. (Maidenhair Tree)—The 
sole surviving species of a family of trees which in past 
geological time flourished over much of the earth. Now 
practically extinct in the wild state. A most picturesque 

*The trees described in this list should be planted only after 
a careful study of their characteristics and a thorough considera¬ 
tion of the location where they are to be planted. 





14 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


and rare tree with peculiar fan-shaped leaves. Free 
from insect pests and diseases. Long lived, several hun¬ 
dred years. Height 70 feet. 

Bungei Catalpa. Catalpa bignonoides var. nana. (Um¬ 
brella Catalpa)—An unusual dwarf type of tree with a 
slender stem and a round, dome-shaped head with large 
soft leaves. Can be obtained in 6, 7, 8 and 9-foot heads, 
i. e., distance above the ground that head starts. The 
8-foot head is the best for general uses. Suitable for 
small lawns, formal gardens, and places where space will 
not permit a larger tree. Will grow in almost any soil. 
The top is subject to damage by storms. Not long lived, 
10 to 15 years. 

Linden. Tilia. (Lime, Basswood, Whitewood)—A 
noble tree of rounded, pyramidal form casting a dense 
shade. The leaves are heart-shaped. A profusion of sweet, 
yellow flowers appear in June. Requires special care and 



Umbrella Catalpas in a sunken garden. 




DECIDUOUS TREES 


15 


attention when young. Prefers heavy soils. The Euro¬ 
pean Linden (Tilia vulgaris or Tilia enropaea) is the most 
desirable. Height 70 feet. 

Russian Olive—See “Shrubs”. 

Red Bud—See “Shrubs”. 

Sycamore. Platanus occidentals. —A hardy native 
tree growing wild in our river bottoms. Its white bark 
gives it a very picturesque appearance in groups of other 
trees. Prefers heavy or moist soil but it will survive in 
dry soil. It has a disagreeable characteristic of often 
dropping its leaves in midsummer, especially when 
planted in dry locations. Height to 90 feet. 

A European species of Sycamore, Platanus orientalis, 
is being tried in this section, which is said to not have the 
objectionable characteristic of dropping its leaves in 
summer. 

White Oak. Quercus alba. —The most magnificent of 
American trees. Requires a large open space to reach its 
full development. Slow growth. Rather difficult to 
transplant. Foliage assumes a deep red color in the Fall, 
and persists into the Winter. Prefers heavy soil. Height 
80 feet. 

Bolleana Poplar. Populus bolleana. (Bolles’ silver 
poplar)—Assumes a tall spire-like form similar to the 
Lombardy Poplar. The leaves are glossy green above, 
silvery white beneath. Superior to the Lombardy Poplar 
where a tall, narrow tree is desired. A rapid growing, 
unusual tree, well adapted to this climate. The Bolleana 
Poplar may be planted in rows at the rear of the premises 
or along the property line to screen from view unsightly 
buildings or other features. Height 60 feet. 


16 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


DECIDUOUS TREES WHICH ARE OFTEN PLANTED BUT 

WHICH ARE NOT RECOMMENDED BECAUSE OF CER¬ 
TAIN OBJECTIONABLE CHARACTERISTICS. 

White Ash. Fraxinus americana .—A beautiful tree with glossy 
green foliage but badly attacked here by boring insects. Height 
60 feet. 

Box Elder. Acer negimdo. (Ashleaf Maple)—Should not be 
planted in this section because of its short life, susceptibility to 
insect attack, and soft wood. 

Cottonwood. Populus deltoides .—One of our most common 
native trees but not desirable for City planting. Too tall for 
ordinary streets. The wood is soft and brittle, and the roots clog 
sewers, water pipes, etc. Badly attacked by borers. The pistillate 
tree is especially objectionable because of its characteristic of 
shedding cotton in the summer. Height 80 feet. 

Carolina Poplar. Populus eugenei .—Much like the Cottonwood 
except that it does not bear cotton. Badly attacked by borers. 
Not recommended for City planting. 



A Kansas prairie production of a natural planting. Comprises margin of nond 
reaching to a pergola blending into the trees beyond, a bit of road from the street 

t^ P t«l°r SIS K CO f ered ^ ^ lt j hybrid li!acs and Perennia's in front; low hanging hori¬ 
zontal limb of an old redbud tree across the sky line finishes the picture. 





DECIDUOUS TREES 


17 


Lombardy Poplar. Populus nigra italica .—A rapid growing 
tree with a spire-like form. Generally short lived here because of 
attacks by borers. The Bolleana Poplar is suitable for such pur¬ 
poses as the Lombardy Poplar is generally used. 

Soft Maple. Acer dasycarpum .—Suitable only for large lawns 
and open areas where the roots can spread. Rapid in growth for 
a few years, but generally short-lived. Attacked by scale. Not 
recommended for street planting. 



Austrian Pine 


mm&K 







CHAPTER III. 

EVERGREEN TREES. 


E VERGREENS are most cheerful Winter friends and 
are best appreciated at the season when other plants 
and trees are bare and brown. Evergreens should always 
be purchased balled and burlapped, (R. & R.) which 
means that the trees are dug with a ball of dirt left about 
the roots, securely held by burlap. 

♦EVERGREENS FOR GENERAL PLANTING. 

Austrian Pine. Pinus nigra. (Rlack Pine)—A dense, 
dark evergreen which becomes a hardy, massive tree. En¬ 
dures drought conditions, will grow in sandy and poor 
soil, and will survive in the City where smoke, gas, and 
other conditions are fatal to most evergreens. The best 
tall evergreen. Height 80 feet. 

Scotch Pine. Pinus sylvestris .—A picturesque ever¬ 
green with bluish green foliage. Not as dense as the 
Austrian Pine, and not as well adapted to City conditions. 
Height 60 feet. 

Chinese Arbor Vitae. Thuja orientalis .—A hardy 
evergreen with bright green foliage and broad-spreading 
pyramidal habit of growth. Suitable in a group with the 
Red Cedar. Very hardy. Requires full sunlight. Height 
25 feet. 

♦The height indicated is the average height when the tree is 
mature. It does not necessarily indicate the maximum height of 
certain individual specimens. 


20 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Red Cedar. Juni¬ 
per us virginiana .—The 
commonest o f orna¬ 
mental evergreens here 
and the most satisfac¬ 
tory. Broad-spreading 
columnar habit of 
growth. Will endure 
drought, and will grow 
in poor and sandy soil. 
Also suitable for par¬ 
tially shaded locations. 
Foliage turns a purple 
color in winter. The 
Platte River type is the 
most satisf actor y. 
The Red Cedar is es¬ 
pecially desirable for 
screen plantings to hide 
unsightly landscape fea¬ 
tures. It is also planted 
extensively for wind¬ 
breaks. Height 40 feet. 


Red Cedar. 


Savin Juniper. Juniperus sabina. (Dwarf Juniper).— 
A dwarf evergreen suitable for foundation plantings and 
in the front of groups of taller growing evergreens. Fine, 
dainty foliage. It will spread to 6 or 8 feet in diameter, 
the Savin Juniper is very hardy and will grow in rather 
poor soil. Recommended for mixing with shrubs in mass 
plantings. Height 5 feet. 


Japanese Trailing Juniper. Juniper us jciponica. —A 
unique, creeping evergreen, very hardy, with bluish-green 
foliage. Will make a plant 4 or 5 feet in diameter. Good 
ground cover. When well established it will stand heat 
and drought. Height 1 foot. 




EVERGREEN TREES 


21 


OTHER EVERGREENS SUITABLE FOR THIS CLIMATE BUT 
RECOMMENDED ONLY FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 

Jack Pine. Finns banksiana. —An evergreen of rather 
scraggly growth. Said to be quite successful in sandy soil 
in this section. Has little to recommend it for ornamental 
planting, except, perhaps, its picturesque habit of growth. 
Height 60 feet. 

Silver Cedar. Juniperus virginiana glauca .—A form 
of the common Red Cedar, described previously. This 
tree has bluish silvery foliage. Desirable in a group with 
other evergreens and especially with the Red Cedar. 
Height 25 feet. 

Pfitzer’s Juniper. Juniper as chinensis Pfitzeriana .— 
A low, broad evergreen of a somewhat stubby habit of 
growth with blue-green foliage. Branches grow horizon¬ 
tally forming a flat spreading top. Height 12 feet. 

Tamarisk-Leaved Juniper. Juniper as sabina tamaris- 
eifolia. —A very beautiful, trailing form of the Savin Juni¬ 
per. Has delicate bluish foliage. Sometimes known as 
Gray Carpet Juniper. Grows very well here even in poor 
soil. Height 2 feet. 


THE FOLLOWING EVERGREENS ARE SOMETIMES PLANTED 
BUT ARE NOT RECOMMENDED. 

Colorado Blue Spruce. Picea pungens. — Often injured by the 
hot weather. 

Fir. Abies. — Not adapted to this hot climate. 

Irish Juniper. Juniperus communis hibernica. — Often dam¬ 
aged by hot weather. 

White Pine. Pinus stobus .—Suitable only for sheltered loca¬ 
tions and for fairly heavy soil. 


CHAPTER IV. 

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS. 


Althea. Hibiscus syriacus. (Rose of Sharon)—A 
hardy, flowering shrub, upright and somewhat tree-like in 



Flower of a Single Althea. 










DECIDUOUS SHRUBS 


23 


habit of growth. One of the few shrubs that blossom in 
the late summer. Flowers are violet, red, purple, pink and 
white, depending upon the variety. Both single and 
double flowered varieties. Will endure heat and drought. 
Sometimes injured by severe winter weather. Height 5 
to 10 feet. 

Varieties : Boule de feu —flowers double, deep red. 

Duchesse de Brabant —double lilac flowers. 

Comte de Hainaut —flowers double, delicate pink. 

Jeanne d’Arc —double white flowers. 

Lady Stanley —double flowers, whitish pink. 

Coral-Berry. Symphoricarpos vulgaris. (Indian cur¬ 
rant. Red Snowherry. Buck-brush)—A native shrub and 
excellent for ornamental purposes. Flowers are incon¬ 
spicuous. Most striking characteristic is the quantities of 
bright red berries which persist until late winter. Will 
grow in both sunny and shaded locations. Height 3 to 4 
feet. 

Elder. Sambucus 
canadensis. (Elder¬ 
berry).—An attract¬ 
ive, native shrub with 
rather coarse foliage. 

Great, h a n d s o m e, 
white flowers in June 
and July, followed by 
clusters of purple ber- 
r i e s. Very hardy. 

Height 6 to 8 feet. 

Golden Elder. 

Sambucus nigra au- 
rea .—A variety of El¬ 
der with bright yellow foliage. When planted among 
other shrubs the yellow leaves make a delightful contrast. 
Flowers are like the common Elder. Height 6 to 8 feet. 



24 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Cut-Leaf Elder. Sambucus nigra laciniata. —A variety 
of Elder with deeply cut fern-like leaves. Very delicate 
and attractive. Flowers like common Elder. In mass 
planting the lace-like leaves make a delightful contrast 
with the foliage of most other shrubs. 



Flower of Forsythia. 


Forsythia. Forsyth- 
ia intermedia. (Golden 
Bell)—One of the earli¬ 
est shrubs to bloom in 
the Spring. Before any 
trees or shrubs leaf out, 
the branches of For¬ 
sythia blaze with bright 
yellow flowers. Height 
4 to 6 feet. Forsythia 
is one of the most at¬ 
tractive shrubs for mass 
plantings. Although in 
bloom but a short time 
its flowers and foliage 
harmonize with most 
shrubs. 


Drooping Forsythia. Forsythia suspensa.—A droop¬ 
ing and trailing variety suitable for covering banks and 
drooping over walls. Flowers are like Forsythia inter¬ 
media. Height 3 to 5 feet. 







DECIDUOUS SHRUBS 


25 



Bush Honeysuckle. 


BUSH HONEYSUCKLE. 

The Bush Honeysuckles represent some of the hardi¬ 
est and best shrubs for this section. They have dainty, 
fragrant flowers in the Summer, followed by bright, con¬ 
spicuous berries. 

Tartarian Honeysuckle. (Lonicera tartarica.) —The 
most common bush honeysuckle. Bears a profusion of 
dainty flowers in May and June, followed by bright red 
berries in the late summer. One of the best shrubs for 
this climate. Height 6 to 8 feet. 









PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


26 


Belle Honeysuckle. Lonicera bella albida. —Similar to 
Tartarian honeysuckle. Very vigorous and hardy. An 
excellent shrub. Height 6 to 8 feet. 

Morrow Honeysuckle. Lonicera morrowi. —Similar to 
Lonicera tartarica. Dense in growth. White flowers in 
May and June. The Morrow Honeysuckle is very hardy 
and attractive. Height 4 to 6 feet. 


MockOrange. 
Philadelphus c o r o - 
narins. (Syringa) — 
An old- fashioned 
shrub with white, fra¬ 
grant flowers. A long- 
lived, hardy shrub. 
Blooms in May and 
June. Height 6 to 8 
feet. 


Large Flowered 
Syringa. Philadelphus 
grandiflorus. — Simi¬ 
lar to Philadelphus 
coronarius but with 
larger flowers. Both 
species of Syringa are 
among the hardiest of 
the long lived shrubs 
which thrive in Kan¬ 
sas. Will endure 
drought after it is 
well established. 



Lilac. Syringa vulgaris.— An old-fashioned garden 
favorite with purple, blue, white and pink flowers in May. 
The Persian lilacs are among the most attractive and 


DECIDUOUS SHRUBS 


27 


bloom when the plants are quite young. There are many 
hybrid varieties representing various shades of color. 
Height 6 to 20 feet. 

Matrimony Vine. Lycium chinense. —While generally 
considered a climber or vine, Matrimony Vine makes an 
excellent low shrub. Flowers are inconspicuous, but the 
shrub bears quantities of crimson berries in the Fall. En¬ 
dures drought and is excellent to cover banks. Berries 
are said to be poisonous if eaten. Height 4 to 5 feet. 

PRIVET. 

Perhaps the Privets are best known as hedge plants. 
There are some varieties, however, that are among the 
best shrubs we have for mass planting. The leaves of 
most species remain on the plants into the winter, giving 
them an appearance of evergreen shrubs. The flowers are 
generally inconspicuous. The fruit is a black berry. 

Amoor River Privet North. Ligustrum amarense .— 
The best shrub for low, formal hedges. This shrub is 
hardy and endures adverse conditions. Will grow in 
partial shade. Height 5 to 6 feet. 

California Privet. Ligustrum ovalifolium. Used for 
hedges but is not as satisfactory as Amoor River Privet for 
it sometimes winter kills. Foliage dark green. Leaves 
persist into the winter. Height 5 to 6 feet. 

Ibotan Privet. Ligustrum ibota.— Excellent when 
mixed with other shrubs. Has dark green foliage, chang¬ 
ing to a rich purple in the Fall. Inconspicuous flowers. 
Does well in partially shaded locations where other shrubs 
fail. One of the best shrubs for this climate and not as 
popular as it deserves to be. Height 6 to 8 feet. 

Regals Privet. Ligustrum ibota regalianum.— Similar 


28 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


to Ibotan Privet but smaller, with horizontal branches. 
Foliage like Ibotan Privet. Will grow in partial shade. 
Foliage turns a rich purple in Fall. A very desirable 
shrub. Height 4 to 6 feet. 

Red Bud. Cercis canadensis. (Judas Tree)—A native 
shrub or small tree. Blossoms in early spring, before any 
leaves appear, with a profusion of rose-pink flowers. The 
heart-shaped leaves make the foliage very attractive. Very 
hardy. Will grow in partial shade. Height to 20 feet. 

Russian Olive. Eleagnns angustifolia .—A large 
shrub or small tree with silvery white foliage. Inconspicu¬ 
ous fruit and flowers. Stands drought. One of the best 
tall shrubs for this section. Very desirable as a wind¬ 
break. Height to 20 feet. 


ROSES. 

The successful culture of roses is a form of horticul¬ 
ture for the expert. It requires care, patience and a com¬ 
prehensive knowledge of conditions influencing rose 
growth and development. There are hundreds of varie¬ 
ties. The subject of rose growing and the number of 
varieties are too extensive for anything except a super¬ 
ficial discussion in this little book. Only a few hardy 
varieties are described. For description of Climbing 
Roses see “Vines and Climbers.” 

Prairie Rose. Rose setigera .—A native, trailing variety 
with clusters of single flowers of a deep rose color. A 
very hardy rose. Height 5 feet. 

Paul Neyron.—Has enormous flowers of a cerise red 
color. Bright glossy foliage. Blooms from June until Oc¬ 
tober. Mulch in the Fall as a protection against cold. 


DECIDUOUS SHRUBS 


29 



Rugosa Rose. 

Japanese Rose. Rosa rugosa .—One of the best roses 
for massing among shrubs. Large single flowers in mid¬ 
summer. The fruit is bright red in color and is especially 
attractive in late Summer. Prefers a rather heavy soil. 
Susceptible to Rust. Very hardy. Height 4 feet. 

Frau Karl Druschki.—Large white flowers. Quite 
hardy. Blossoms in June. 

Madam Hillingdon.—A yellow rose which is said to do 
well in this section. 




30 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Gruss an Teplitz.—Showy flowers of a dark rich crim¬ 
son. The first blossoms appear in June and this rose gen¬ 
erally continues blossoming all Summer. Mulch in the Fall 
for protection against cold. 

Spirea. Spirea Vanhouttei. (Bridal Wreath)—A hardy 
shrub with prolific quantities of white flowers on drooping 
branches in May. Excellent for planting about porches, 
foundations, etc. Endures drought. Spirea is one of the 
most conspicuous of Spring flowering shrubs. It is adapt¬ 
ed to almost every soil condition. Height four to six feet. 


Spirea Vanhouttei (Bridal Wreath) 

Sumac. Rhus glabra. (Smooth Sumac)—Slender 
shrub, often with single stalk. Reddish brown seed spikes 



DECIDUOUS SHRUBS 


31 


persist during the Winter. Foliage colors a dark red in 
Fall. Very hardy. Height 10 to 12 feet. 

Cut-Leaf Sumac. Rhus glabra laciniata .—Similar to 
Smooth Sumac but with deeply cut foliage. Height to 10 
feet. 


Stag-Horn Sumac. Rhus typhina .—A tall shrub or 
small tree with heavy, tropical-appearing foliage. A rapid 
grower and very hardy. Suitable for quick effects and 
for screen planting. Height to 25 feet. 

TAMARIX. 

Tamarix represents a genus of very hardy and 
drought-resistant shrubs which are especially adapted to a 
hot dry climate. All varieties require full sunlight all 
day. Tamarix will not grow in the shade. 

Amur Tamarix. 

Tamarix amuren.se .— 

The most beautiful of 
all varieties of Tama¬ 
rix, and one of the 
best shrubs for this 
climate. Beautiful, 
feathery foliage of a 
distinctive blue color. 

Will flourish in hot, 
dry locations, espec¬ 
ially on the south side 
of walls and buildings where other shrubs burn out. Pink 
flowers in August and September. A very pretty effect is 
obtained when the shrub is cut to the ground in early 
spring. Height 6 to 8 feet. 

Kashgar Tamarix. Tamarix hispida. —A dwarf form 
with silvery blue foliage. Height 4 to 5 feet. 



Tamarix. 



32 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


French or India Tamarix. Tamarix gallica (or in - 
dica) —One of the most common varieties of Tamarix. 
Foliage dull green. Must have full sunlight. Flowers are 
pink and are borne in profuse quantities from May to 
September. Height 10 to 12 feet. 

African Tamarix. Tamarix africana. —Height to 15 
feet. Perhaps the most common form of Tamarix found 
in this section. Bright green foliage. Will often become a 
small tree. Will not grow in the shade. 

'"SPECIAL SHRUBS AND BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS. 

Aralia Spinosa. — (Hercules Club, Angelica Tree, 
Devil’s Walking Stick)—A peculiar shrub, generally with 
a single stalk, bark covered with short thorns. Immense 
compound leaves sometimes 3 feet long. Gives a tropical 
effect when used witli other shrubs. Height 10 to 15 feet. 

Berberis illicifolia. —A rare evergreen shrub. Leaves 
resemble those of holly. Foliage turns a most beautiful 
purple in Fall. Height 5 feet. 

Mahonia aquifolium. (Oregon Grape)—An evergreen 
with leaves like holly. Resembles Berberis illicifolia. Re¬ 
quires partial shade. Height 4 to 5 feet. 

Paulownia. Paulownia tomentosa. —In warm climates 
Paulownia becomes a large tree, but here it grows from 
5 to 10 feet tall each season and kills to the ground in 
Winter, coming up again the next Spring. It has huge, 
tropical leaves, and makes a very curious shrub. Should 
be cut to tlie ground each Fall. 


the shrubs described in this list are suitable only for special 
locations and require exceptional care and attention. ' Not recom¬ 
mended for general planting. 


CHAPTER V. 

VINES AND CLIMBERS. 


Boston Ivy. Ampelopsis veitchi or Ampelopsis tri- 
CLispidata .—A beautiful variety of Ivy adapted to clinging 
to brick walls, stucco, etc. Plant only on North and East 
exposures as it is likely to burn out on the South and West. 



Boston Ivy. 


Boston Ivy has beautiful, dainty foliage and in locations 
where it will grow makes the most attractive covering 
for brick walls and stucco of any deciduous vine. 






34 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Engelmann’s Ivy. Ampelopsis Engelmanni. —Similar 
to Boston Ivy, but with larger foliage and the leaves are 
closer together. Will cling to brick and stucco on South 
and West exposures where Boston Ivy burns out. The 
best climber for walls. 

English Ivy. Hedera helix. —English Ivy is the aristo¬ 
crat of vines. It is evergreen, and will cling to stucco, 
stone and brick. English Ivy will grow here on North ex¬ 
posures when well cared for. It prefers heavy soil. Field 
grown plants should be purchased, as plants propagated 
in greenhouses are likely to be tender. 

Virginia Creeper. Ampelopsis quinquefolia. (Wood¬ 
bine)—A native vine similar to Engelmann’s Ivy, but not 
as desirable for covering walls. Suitable for growing over 
pergolas, etc. 

Bittersweet. Celastrus scandens. —An old-fashioned 
vine with bright green leaves and clusters of scarlet ber¬ 
ries in Fall and Winter. Very desirable for covering per¬ 
golas, wire fences, etc. Berries are used during the Win¬ 
ter holidays for home decorations. 

Hall’s Honeysuckle. Lonicera japonica hallicina. —A 
hardy vine with dark green foliage which persists into the 
Winter and gives the vine a pleasing evergreen appear¬ 
ance. Fragrant white flowers in Summer. Very desir¬ 
able for covering banks and spots where grass fails to 
grow. 


Kudzu Vine. Pueraria thimbergiana. —A most rapid 
growing vine suitable for quick etfects. Will sometimes 
grow 50 feet in a single season. Good for quick tempor¬ 
ary covering for pergolas. Generally dies back during 
the Winter. For permanence plant Bitter-sweet and 
Trumpet Vine. 


VINES AND CLIMBERS 


35 


CLIMBING ROSES. 

There are a number of climbing roses suitable for 
covering trellises, fences, arbors, etc. Unfortunately most 
climbing roses are attacked here by mildew. Climbing 
roses invariably require spraying several times during the 
Spring and Summer as a preventive against insects and 
diseases. 



Climbing Rose. 


Crimson Rambler Rose.—The best known of all the 
climbing roses. Clusters of crimson (lowers in June and 
July. A profuse bloomer. 

Dorothy Perkins Rose.—One of the most vigorous 
climbing roses. Clusters of pink flowers in June and July. 
Bright, shining foliage. Susceptible to mildew. 






PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Climbing American Beauty Rose.—Large beautiful 
flowers, resembling those of the American Beauty Rose. 
Blossoms all summer. 


Thousand Beauties Rose. (Tausendschon)—Thousands 
of bright double flowers in various shades of pink. Few 
thorns. Said to be resistant to mildew. 


Trumpet Vine. 

Bignonia radicans .— 
A rapid g r o w i n g 
hardy vine with or¬ 
ange flowers. Excel¬ 
lent for covering per¬ 
golas. It is particu¬ 
larly suitable for con¬ 
ditions in Southern 
Kansas. 


Morning Glories. 

Convulvus .—An old- 
fashioned annual 
climber, very hardy 
and rapid in growth. 
Beautiful and deli¬ 
cate flowers in vari¬ 
ous colors. 


Trumpet Vine. 








CHAPTER VI. 

* ANNUAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERING PLANTS. 

African Golden Daisy. Dimorphotheca aurantiaca .— 
Annual. A very attractive plant with bright, daisy-like 
flowers the size of a silver dollar. Petals are a golden 
yellow with a dark center. The plant is a native of South¬ 
western Africa. It does well in hot, sunny situations, and 
endures drought. Will bloom up to frost if the flowers 
are cut when they commence to fade. Grown from seed. 
Height 12 to 18 inches. 

Amaranthus.—Hardy annuals grown for their richly 
colored foliage. Height 3 to 5 feet. Will grow in poor soil 
and hot dry locations. Require full sunlight. Grown from 
seed. 

Varieties: Caudatus. (Love Lies Bleeding)—Blood red foliage, 
height 3 feet. 

Sunrise —Foliage brilliant bronze crimson. 

Tricolor —Joseph’s Coat. Leaves red, yellow and 
green. 

Ageratum.—Pretty little annuals growing from 6 to 
12 inches tall with deep blue flowers. Plants are a sheet of 
blue from early summer until frost. The “Rlue Perfec¬ 
tion” variety is one of the best. Grown from seed. 

* Annuals are plants which attain full growth from seed, and 
flower and die in one year. 

Perennials last for several years. They generally start bloom¬ 
ing the second year from seed. 


38 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Anchusa. Anchu- 
sa italica .—A hardy 
perennial 3 to 5 feet 
tall with spikes of 
pretty, blue flowers in 
May and June. Large, 
hairy foliage. This 
plant is one of the 
best of the tall-grow¬ 
ing perennials. It is 
especially easy to 
grow, but it requires 
a bright, sunny situa¬ 
tion for its best devel¬ 
opment. Grown from 
seed. T h e “Drop- 
more” variety is the 
most popular. There 
is no more intense 
blue to be found in 
nature than is in the 
color of the flower of 
Anchusa. Anchusa 
deserves a place in 
every flower garden. 

Arundo. Reed Grass. Cane. Arundo donax .—A tall 
reed-like, perennial grass resembling Bamboo. Under fav¬ 
orable conditions it will grow 20 feet in a single season. 
Excellent to screen unsightly buildings or corners. Should 
be cut to the ground each winter. Requires full sunlight 
and plenty of water and fertilizer. Grown from bulbous 
tubers. Can be increased by dividing the tubers every few 
years. Should be heavily mulched with leaves or manure 
during the winter to avoid freezing. The cane can be 
saved each year and when dry they make excellent stakes 
for supporting such plants as have a tendency to droop. 



Anchusa Italica. Dropmore Variety. 



FLOWERING PLANTS 


39 


Canna.— loo well known to require description. One 
of the best annuals. Grown from bulbs. Most effective 
when planted together in large beds. To grow Gannas 
spade beds 2 feet deep, and mix well-rotted manure or 
fertilizer* with the soil. Plant bulbs 8 inches deep, set 2 
feet apart. The plants should be watered freely during 
the Summer. If the blooming stalks are cut to the ground 
when the flower starts to fade new blooms will come con¬ 
tinuously until frost. 

Plants should be cut to the ground after the first heavy 
trost and the bulbs left in the ground two weeks longer. 
The bulbs should then be dug and lifted with some of the 
dirt left on the clumps. The clumps should not be divided 
and should be stored in a cool, dark place, until Spring. 
They should be examined frequently during the Winter. 
If they show indications of drying or shriveling they 
should be sprinkled with water or covered with moist sand 
or saw dust. 

Varieties: The President. —One of the best. Bright scarlet flow¬ 
ers all summer until frost. Green foliage. Height 
5 feet. 

Gladiator. —Yellow flowers. Green foliage. Height 
4V 2 feet. 

King Humbert. —Orange-scarlet flowers. Bronze foli¬ 
age. Height 4V2 feet. 

Yellow King Humbert. —Yellow flowers. Green foli¬ 
age. Height 4 feet. 

Mrs. Alfred Conrad. —Salmon pink flowers. Green 
foliage. Height 4 feet. 

Bocconia. Plume Poppy. Bocconia cordata. —A hardy 
perennial growing to a height of 3 to 5 feet. Well adapted 
to this climate. Whitish green foliage and spikes of 
cream colored flowers in midsummer. Grown from seed. 

Under favorable conditions Bocconia will multiply 
rapidly from the root of the parent plant. Sensitive to 
frost when in leaf. 




Canna, The President. 





















































































VINES AND CLIMBERS 


41 


Bachelor Button, 
Emperor William, 
Corn Flower. Centau- 
rea cyanus. — Bien¬ 
nials, but generally 
classed as perennials 
as they re-seed them¬ 
selves year after year. 
An o 1 d, - fashioned 
flower, very desirable 
for this section. The 
blossoms are excel¬ 
lent for cut-flowers. 
Height 1 to 2 feet. 
Blossoms all summer. 
Grown from seed. 
Colors: blue, pink, 

white, etc. 



Bachelor Button. 


Castor Bean. Iiiciniis .—A tall-growing annual of trop¬ 
ical appearance with enormous, pointed leaves. Excellent 
for foliage and screen effects. Requires plenty of water 
and fertilizer for best growth. Grown from seed. Start 
indoors in flats or pots for quick results. A very attractive 
and curious plant. Seeds are poisonous. 

Varieties: Bourboniensis .—Immense green foliage. Height 15 
feet. 

Cambogensis .—Maroon foliage, black stems. Height 
5 feet. 

Zanzibarensis .—One of the best. Foliage varies, 
green, brown and purple. Height to 10 feet. 


Chrysanthemum.—Perennial varieties are most satis¬ 
factory. They blossom in October and November, when 
few flowers are in bloom. Flowers in shades of red, or¬ 
ange, white, etc. Grown from seed. (See also Shasta 
Daisy.) 







42 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Calendula. Pot Mar¬ 
igold.—A hardy an¬ 
nual about 1 foot tall, 
with bright yellow 
and orange yellow 
flowers. Blooms all 
Summer until frost. 
Well adapted to this 
climate. Will grow 
in poor soil. Grown 
from seed. Many 
varieties, represent¬ 
ing color variations 
of yellow and orange. 
The calendula is one 
of the hardiest and 
best annuals for this 
section. Calendula 
should have full sun¬ 
light all day for its 
best development. It 
makes an excellent 
border plant and can 
be planted late with 
good chances of 
success. (The mari¬ 
gold of Shakespeare’s 
time.) 



Calendulas, or Pot Marigolds. 


Coleus.—Annual plants grown for their brilliant foli¬ 
age effects. The leaves are brightly colored in various 
shades of red, yellow, purple and other colors. Coleus 
grows about 18 inches tall. It requires full sunlight. Most 
satisfactory results can be obtained by buying plants 
grown from cuttings. Coleus will grow from seeds, which 
give interesting variations in shades of coloring. 









FLOWERING PLANTS 


13 



Long-Spurred Aquilegia. 

(Columbine) 

Columbine. Aquilegia. —Perennial. Height 1 to 2 
feet. One of the prettiest perennials. Flowers in shades 
of blue and yellow. The Rocky Mountain Columbine, with 
blue flowers, is one of the best. Blossoms from May to 
August. Grown from seed. Prefers a partially shaded 
location. Columbine deserves a place in every flower 
garden. It is one of the inconsistencies of Nature that 
this shrub which is native to cool mountainous regions 
should thrive in Kansas. 




44 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Coreopsis.—A very attractive and hardy perennial 
with bright yellow flowers. If the flowers are cut fre¬ 
quently it will bloom all Summer. Very hardy, and often 
sows itself about the parent plant. Grown from seed. 
Height to 4 feet. One of the best perennials for this sec¬ 
tion. Especially attractive among shrubs. 


Cosmos.—Late Summer flowering annuals, with 
bright daisy-like blossoms of various colors. Suitable for 
poor and sandy soils. Cosmos is very hardy. The seed 
should be sown where the plant is to stand as it does not 
transplant well. Height 4 to 6 feet. 


Coreopsis or Tick-Seed. 


FLOWERING PLANTS 


45 



Four O’clocks. Mirabilis jalapa. (Marvel of Peru).— 
A free-flowering annual with flowers of various colors, 
suitable for poor and sandy soil. Will stand drought. 
Make a very pretty effect when planted in groups. Will 
grow under adverse conditions where other plants fail. 
The flowers remain closed until four o’clock in the after¬ 
noon when they open into a vivid mass of color. 


Foxglove. Digi¬ 
talis .—One of our best 
perennials. Spikes of 
bell-shaped flowers. 
Blossoms in June and 
July. Varieties with 
white, yellow, purple, 
etc., flowers. Does 
best in partial shade. 
Grown from seed. 
Height 2 to 5 feet. 

Foxglove is an old- 
fashioned plant which 
deserves a place in 
every garden. It is 
easy of culture and is 
well adapted to this 
climate. The plant 
has been appreciated 
for many years be¬ 
cause of the medicinal 
properties of the 
leaves. One of the 
most successful var¬ 
ieties here is Digitalis 
purpurea. It is a na¬ 
tive of Great Britain. 


Digitalis or Foxglove. 




46 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Blanket Flower. Gaillardia .—One of the showiest 
perennials. Bright, daisy-like flowers of gorgeous color¬ 
ings. Shades of red, yellow, and crimson. Requires full 
sunlight for best effect. Will grow in poor soil. Flowers 
all summer. Grown from seed. Height 1 to 2 feet. 


Ornamental Grasses.—There are several kinds of 
perennial grasses which have a pleasing, decorative effect. 

Varieties: Pampas Grass.— A tall grass. Height to 5 feet with 
great whitish plumes. Buy plants. 

Fountain Grass .—About 3 feet tall with spikes of at¬ 
tractive seeds. 


Blanket Flower. 









Single Annual Dianthus or Pinks 













48 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Cockscomb.—An annual with a peculiar gorgeous- 
colored flower which resembles a comb of a giant chanti¬ 
cleer. The flowers'often measure 12 inches across. Grown 
from seed. (Really more of a curiosity than a pretty 
flower). 

Varieties : Glasgow Prize .—Dark crimson combs. Height 2 feet. 

Golden Queen— Large yellow combs. Height 2 feet. 
(There are several dwarf varieties also.) 

Hardy Larkspur. Delphinium .—Blossoms all summer 
with spikes of blue and purple flowers. One of the best 
perennials. Grown from seed. Height 3 to 4 feet. Pre¬ 
fers a partially shaded location. If flowers are cut when 
they are fading, almost continuous blooming may be ob¬ 
tained to the end of the season. 

Varieties: Belladonna is one of the best. A continuous bloomer 
with turquoise flowers. 

Hardy Pinks. Dianthus .—Low growing perennials 
with bright, fragrant flowers all summer. Grown from 
seed. Very pretty and dainty. Height 6 to 8 inches. 

Varieties of Dianthus plumarius represent the most 
satisfactory kinds. 

Sweet William. Dianthus harbatus .—An old-fashioned 
hardy perennial with large richly colored flowers. Should 
be in every flower garden. Grown from seed. Height 
1 foot. 

Dusty Miller. White-leaved cineraria.—An annual 
with silvery foliage suitable for edging beds. Very hardy 
and endures drought. Used in beds for its foliage effect. 
A few planted together in a bed gives a touch of white 
foliage all summer. 

Flax. Linum perenne .—A perennial with delicate 
blue flowers in May and August. Buy plants. Height 1 
foot. One of the most dainty and pleasing perennials. 


FLOWERING PLANTS 


49 



German Iris. 


Iris. German Iris. Flag. Fleur de Lis.—One of the 
best perennials. Will grow under adverse conditions. 
Blossoms in May and June. Flowers of various colors. 
Clumps should be lifted every few years and divided. Buy 
plants. May be propagated by dividing the clumps after 
they are through blooming. There is no flower better 
suited to this climate than the Iris. 




50 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Hibiscus. Mallow. Marsh-Mallow.—A very desirable 
perennial. Flowers large and showy. Crimson, white, red 
and pink varieties. Buy roots of named varieties. Height 
4 to 6 feet. 

Mallow is an excellent perennial for massing among 
tall shrubs It has attractive foliage which harmonizes 
well with the foliage of most shrubs in shrubbery masses. 
Some varieties of Mallow have tlowers which are from 
five to seven inches in diameter. It is well suited to Kan¬ 
sas conditions. 


Mallow. 





FLOWERING PLANTS 


51 


Hemerocallis. Yel¬ 
low Day Lily. Hem- 
erocallis flava .—A 
very hardy, old- 
fashioned peren¬ 
nial. Yellow flow¬ 
ers on stems 2 feet 
tall. Buy plants. 
Propagated by di¬ 
vision of root 
clumps. Hemero¬ 
callis is a true per¬ 
ennial living year 
after year in the 
driest locations and 
under most adverse 
conditions. The 
plants should be 
lifted every 4 or 5 
years and the 
clumps divided. 



Day Lily. 


Hollyhock. Althea rosea .—A well known, old-fash¬ 
ioned garden perennial. Grows 4 to 8 feet tall. Both sin¬ 
gle and double flowered varieties in various shades of 
color. Grown from seed. Subject to rust in Summer. 


Lantana.—An annual which flowers all Summer and 
in early Fall, with various colored flowers. The dwarf 
forms are most attractive. Height 1 to 2 feet. Grown from 
seed but often difficult to get started. 

Marigold.—The annual dwarf varieties are from 18 to 
24 inches tall. Tall varieties grow to 3 feet. Bright yellow 
flowers all summer. The double African Marigolds are 
especially handsome. Very well adapted to hot, sunny 
situations. 









52 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Single Fringed Petunia. 


Petunia.—One of the hardiest and most satisfactory 
annuals. Petunias withstand drought and hot winds. 
They bloom early and continue blooming until frost. 
Many varieties in various heights and colors. Grown from 
seed. 

Hardy Phlox.—One of the most important perennials. 
Phlox succeeds in almost any soil and will flower for sev¬ 
eral successive years. Buy plants. Requires an abundance 
of water during flowering season. Height to 2 feet. 

Varieties: Miss Lingard. — White, pink eye, early. 

Mrs. Jenkins. —White. 

Champs Ely see .—Bright magenta. 

Rheinlander .—-Salmon pink. 


Pinks. (See Dianthus). 



FLOWERING PLANTS 


53 



Platycodon or Japanese Bell Flower. 

Platycodon. Japanese Bell Flower. Balloon Flower.— 
A very pretty perennial well adapted here. Beautiful flow¬ 
ers. 

Platycodon is a native of Asia. It requires a light 
loamy soil and does not do well in very heavy soils or in 
extremely sandy soils. It will not grow in places where 
there is poor drainage. Generally grown from seed, al¬ 
though it can be propagated by dividing the roots in the 
Spring. Height one to two feet. 

Varieties: Grandiflorum .—Large steel-blue flowers. (A most 
desirable variety.) 

Album. —White. 

Double .—Large glossy blue flowers. 






54 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Mexican Fire Plant. 


Mexican Fire Plant. Standing Cypress. Kochia tricho- 
phylla .—An annual suitable for temporary hedges. Turns 
a deep red in Fall. Height to 4 feet. 

Nasturtium.—There is no annual which is easier to 
grow or gives a greater return in profusion of bloom than 
the Nasturtium. Its fragrant flowers present a glorious 
riot of color until frost. Requires well-drained soil and a 
sunny position. 

Varieties: Dwarf. —1 to 2 feet tall. 

Tall or Climbing varieties.—10 to 20 feet. 

Peony. Paeonia. —Spring flowering perennials with 
gorgeous flowers in various shades. Permanent when once 
planted. There are many varieties representing various 
colors and heights. Grown from roots which can be pur¬ 
chased in named varieties. 



FLOWERING PLANTS 


55 



Annual Poppy.—The flower of the poppy needs no 
description here. Annual Poppies should be sown in early 
Spring, where they are to stand, as they do not endure 
transplanting. After they have come up thin to 4 or 5 
inches apart. 

Varieties: Shirley .—Single flowers. Various shades of pink, 
rose, crimson, and red. 

English Scarlet or Flanders .—The field poppy of 
Europe and “Flanders Fields.” 

King Edward .—Deep scarlet. Also double annual 
varieties. 


Oriental Poppy. 

Oriental Poppy.—Flower similar to Annual Poppies, 
but a perennial. Seed should be sown in early Spring. 
Plants die back after flowering and reappear in early Fall. 
During this rest period the roots should not be disturbed. 



56 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Pyrethrum. Painted Daisy.—Perennials 18 inches to 2 
feet tall with large daisy-like flowers. Blossoms in May 
and June. Various colors. Requires full sunlight. Very 
hardy. Grown from seed. 

Rudbeckia. Coneflower.—Hardy annuals and peren¬ 
nials. Vigorous growers. Our native “Black-eyed Susan” 
belongs to this family of plants. 

Varieties: Golden Glow. —Perennial; height 4 to 6 feet. Quanti¬ 
ties of golden yellow flowers in August. 
Purpurea .—Height 3 feet. Reddish purple flowers. 
One of the best. 








FLOWERING PLANTS 


57 


Golden Rod. Solidago .—Perennial with golden yellow 
flowers in late summer. Height 3 feet. Grown from seed. 

Sunflower. Helianthus .—Both annual and perennial 
varieties. Will grow in almost any soil. The improved 
varieties of Sunflower are much different from the wild, 
native varieties and are specially suitable for this location. 

Varieties : Multiflorus. —Perennial. Double flowers (resembles 
Dahlia.) Blossoms in August. Height 4 feet. 

Sweet Alyssum. (Mad Wort.)—Pretty little annuals 
4 to 10 inches tall. Bloom all summer with dainty white 
flowers. Grown from seed. 

Tulips.—A popular Spring-flowering bulbous plant, 
which is very successful in this locality. Tulips require a 
well drained soil. The bulbs should be planted in Sep¬ 
tember or October. Plant about 4 inches deep and 4 to 6 
inches apart. 

There are hundreds of varieties in as many shades of 
colorings. The numerous varieties are divided into the 
following groups. 

(1) Early single Tulips. Small brightly colored early 
blooming varieties. 

(2) Cottage Tulips. Larger and somewhat later flower¬ 
ing than the early Tulips. The most common of all 
Tulips. Not as large or stately as the varieties de¬ 
scribed below, but very pleasing and satisfactory. 

(3) Breeder Tulips. Large-flowering, long-stemmed 
varieties inclined to the darker and more somber 
shades, such as chestnut, brown and dull red. 

(4) Darwin Tulips. The aristocrats of the Tulip family. 
Stately plants with large flowers, the latest of all the 
Tulips to bloom in the Spring. Rich deep colors in 
crimson, red, purple and white. 


58 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Stocks. Gilliflower.—Annual. Height 1 to 2 feet. 
Large brilliant flowers of various colors all summer. Very 
hardy. 

Varieties: Cut and Come Again. — 10-week stocks. 



Helichrysum (Straw Flower). 


Strawflower. Helichrysum. (Everlasting).—Annual. 
Height 2 to 3 feet. Bright, attractive flowers all summer. 
Various colors. When dried the flowers last for months 
and are very attractive for floral decorations. Grown 
from seed. A most unique plant and well adapted to 
Kansas conditions. 












FLOWERING PLANTS 


59 


Scarlet Sage. Salma splendens .-—Annual with spikes 
of bright scarlet flowers. Grown from seeds or buy plants. 
Endures drought and hot weather. Height about 2 feet. 

Perennial Salvia.—Height 2 to 3 feet. Blue flowers in 
August and September. 



Sedum Spectabile. 


Sedum. Stonecrop.—A very attractive, hardy, late- 
flowering perennial with large red and rose-colored flow¬ 
ers. Height 12 to 18 inches. Buy plants. Propagated by 
division. 

Varieties : Spectabile. — Bright light green foliage. Showy rose- 
colored flowers in Fall. 

Shasta Daisy. Chrysanthemum leucanthemum .—One 
of the finest perennials. Flowers have glistening white 
petals and are produced all summer. Grown from seed. 
Height 2 to 3 feet. 



60 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 



Vinca. 


Vinca. (Periwinkle. Old Maid).—There is no better 
annual flower for this climate. Bright cheerful foliage, 
and flowers in delicate shades of red, pink, and white. 
Vinca thrives during the hottest, driest weather. Requires 
full sunlight. Grown from seed. 

Varieties : Rosea .—Delicate rose, dark eye. 

Rosea Alba. —White, crimson eye. 

Rosea Alba Pura .—Pure white. 

Yucca. Yucca filamentosa. (Adam’s Needle, Spanish 
Bayonet)—Very hardy evergreen perennial with sword¬ 
like leaves. Will endure drought and will grow in poor 
soil. Flowers are cream colored and borne on spikes 3 
feet tall. Buy plants. 



FLOWERING PLANTS 


61 



f 

Double Flowered Zinnia. 


Zinnia. —One of the most brilliant and attractive an¬ 
nuals. Well adapted for this section. Blossoms all sum¬ 
mer. Grown from seed. 

Varieties : Double Dahlia Flowered .—Large flowers. Height 3 
feet. Various colors. 

Large Flowering Dwarf Double .—Height 2 feet. 

Giant Double .—Enormous flowers, 5 to 6 inches 
across. Height 3 feet. 




CHAPTER VII. 

PLANTS AND FLOWERS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 

TALL SHRUBS, 10 TO 20 FEET WHEN MATURE. 

Lilac. (Syringa vulgaris). 

Red Bud. (Cercis canadensis). 

Russian Olive. (Eleagnus angustifolia). 

Cut-leaf Sumac. (Rhus glabra laciniata). 

Smooth Sumac. (Rhus glabra). 

Stag-horn Sumac. (Rhus typhina). 

SHRUBS OF MEDIUM HEIGHT, 6 TO 10 FEET WHEN MATURE. 

Althea. (Hibiscus syriacus). 

Elder. (Sambucus canadensis). 

Cut-leaf Elder. (Sambucus nigra laciniata). 

Golden Elder. (Sambucus nigra aurea). 

Golden Bell. (Forsythia intermedia). 

Tartarian Honeysuckle. (Lonicera tartarica). 

Morrow Honeysuckle. (Lonicera morrowi). 

Belle Honeysuckle. (Lonicera bella albida). 

Mock Orange. (Philadelphia coronarius). 

Syringa. (Philadelphia grandiflorus). 

Ibota Privet. (Ligustrum ibota). 

Regals Privet. (Ligustrum Regalianum). 

Amur Tamarix. (Tamarix amurense). 

French Tamarix. (Tamarix gallica). 

LOW SHRUBS, 2 TO 6 FEET, WHEN MATURE. 

Coral-berry. (Symphoricarpos vulgaris). 

Matrimony Vine.— (Lycium chinense). 

Bridal Wreath. (Spirea Vanhouttei). 

Drooping Golden Bell. (Forsythia suspensa). 

Japanese Rose. (Rosa rugosa). 

Kashgar Tamarix.— (Tamarix hispida). 


SPECIAL SHRUBS AND PLANTS 


G3 


SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR HOT, DRY SITUATIONS, ESPECIALLY 
IN LIGHT SANDY SOILS. 

Tamarix. All varieties. Height 6 to 10 feet. 
Coral-Berry. Height 2 to 3 feet. 

Matrimony Vine. Height 3 to 4 feet. 

Smooth Sumac. Height 10 to 12 feet. 

Russian Olive. Height 10 to 20 feet. 


SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR SHADED SITUATIONS 

Privet. All varieties. Height 4 to 8 feet. 

Coral-Berry. Height 2 to 4 feet. 

Red Bud. Height 10 to 20 feet. 

RAPID GROWING TREES, SHRUBS AND PLANTS SUITABLE 
FOR QUICK SCREEN EFFECTS 


Bolleana Poplar. Height to 50 feet. 
Russian Olive. Height 10 to 20 feet. 
Smooth Sumac. Height 10 to 12 feet. 
Arundo. Perennial. Height to 20 feet. 
Canna. Annual. Height to 7 feet. 

Castor Bean. Annual. Height to 15 feet. 
Hollyhock. Perennial. Height 4 to 8 feet. 


ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS SUITABLE FOR CUT FLOWERS 


African Golden Daisy 

Aquilegia 

Bachelor’s Button 

Calendula 

Canna 

Centaurea 

Coreopsis 

Cosmos 

Delphinium 

Dianthus 

Digitalis 

Flax 


Gaillardia 

German Iris 

Marigold 

Nasturtium 

Pansy 

Pyrethrum 

Rudbeckia 

Sedum 

Shasta Daisy 
Strawflower 
Yinca 
Zinnia 


64 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


PLANTS AND SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR 
ORNAMENTAL HEDGES. 

Russian Mulberry. Can be kept clipped at a height of 4 to 12 
feet. The best shrub for a tall hedge. 

Amoor River Privet. (North). Can be kept clipped at a height 
of 2 to 6 feet. 

California Privet. Same height as Amoor River Privet. Occas¬ 
ionally winter kills here. 

Amur Tamarix. Very pretty if permitted to grow in natural 
form and cut to the ground in April before starting growth. Re¬ 
quires full sun. 

Red Cedar. (Jimiperus virginiana). Very satisfactory as an 
evergreen hedge. Can be kept clipped at any height from 3 to 10 
feet. 

Chinese Arbor Vitae. Suitable for an evergreen hedge. 

Mexican Fire Plant. An annual suitable for temporary hedges 
for summer. Height 3 to 4 feet. 



Amoor River Privet Hedge. 




CHAPTER VIII. 

LAWNS AND LAWN GRASSES. 

npHE two kinds of grasses in general use in Central and 
“*■ Southern Kansas for lawn purposes are Bermuda 
Grass and Kentucky Blue Grass. Neither are perfectly 
adapted to this climate, but they seem to be the best we 
have. 

The characteristics of these two grasses are the op¬ 
posite of one another. Blue Grass prefers shaded or par¬ 
tially-shaded situations—Bermuda Grass must have full 
sunlight. Blue Grass does best in heavy soils—Bermuda 
Grass prefers light sandy soils. Blue Grass will endure 
low temperatures without injury, but burns out during 
the Summer—Bermuda Grass delights in intense heat, but 
it may kill out in severe Winters. Blue Grass is green all 
the year round—Bermuda Grass becomes dead and brown 
at the first heavy frost. 

Where Blue Grass will succeed it makes the most 
beautiful lawn of any grass. But except on shaded areas 
Blue Grass will not grow without special care and atten¬ 
tion. And unless such care can be furnished, and water 
applied at the proper time, Blue Grass will not endure 
the heat of a Kansas Summer. 

Bermuda Grass will not do well in the shade. It de¬ 
lights in the hot sun. When Bermuda Grass becomes well 
established on a lawn it will endure severe drought, and 
during such periods of drought it will go for weeks with¬ 
out water and care. But Bermuda Grass must be well 
cared for while it is getting established. 


66 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


In general it may be said that Bermuda Grass will 
grow in situations where Blue Grass will not grow, and 
Blue Grass will grow where Bermuda Grass does not suc¬ 
ceed. 

Experience has indicated that Bermuda Grass and 
Blue Grass may be grown together on the same lawn. Ber¬ 
muda Grass planted on the hot, sunny situations, and Blue 
Grass upon the shaded portions. 

Of these two grasses Bermuda Grass requires less care 
after it has become well established, provided it is in the 
open sunlight all day. It makes a heavy velvety turf. 

MAKING A BLUE GRASS LAWN. 

Blue Grass should be sown in the Fall, preferably in 
early September. Straight Kentucky Blue Grass seed may 
be sown, but a mixture of five-sixths Blue Grass and one- 
sixth White Clover is generally used. The clover is said 
to protect the roots of the Blue Grass when it is young, 
and makes a thicker turf. 

If fertilizer is needed, well-rotted manure, free from 
weed seeds, will serve this purpose.* The quantity of 
manure to be used will vary according to the fertility of 
the ground, but 1,500 pounds is generally sufficient for a 
lawn 50x50 (2,500 sq. ft.) The manure should be pulver¬ 
ized as finely as possible and raked into the top layer of 
soil. 

About 5 pounds of seed are required to seed a lawn 
50x50. The soil should be well spaded so there are no 
lumps or clods, and raked smooth. The seed should be 
sown evenly, preferably when there is no wind, and raked 
into the soil so it is just below the surface. One-eighth 
inch below the surface is the ideal depth for lawn grasses. 

♦There is a fertilizer known as “Nature’s Fertilizer,” prepared 
in Wichita which is sheep and cattle manue with the moisture 
evaporated from it, and treated by heat to destroy weed seeds. 


LAWNS AND LAWN GRASSES 


67 


Rolling with a light roller after the seed is sown will help 
the soil and accelerate germination. 

Should dry weather follow the sowing of the seed the 
new lawn should be watered once or twice a week in the 
evening. 

The seed will germinate in about two weeks. If the 
mixture of Blue Grass and Clover is used the Clover may 
appear first. 

If one fails to get a good stand of Blue Grass in the 
Fall after the seed-bed has been well prepared it is some¬ 
times possible to get fair results on patches where the 
grass fails to appear by sowing the seed broadcast on top 
of the snow during the early Winter. When sown under 
these conditions the melting snow will carry the seed into 
the ground with the moisture, and the grass will start to 
grow in the early Spring. This method should not be re¬ 
lied upon independently to get a stand of grass—it should 
be tried only as an expedient when the usual method of 
sowing and raking the seed in has not been entirely suc¬ 
cessful. 


WATERING A BLUE GRASS LAWN. 

The proper time to water the lawn is at night. Where 
possible, the best method of watering is flooding. 

By flooding is meant covering it entirely with water 
so the soil is saturated for 3 inches or more into the 
ground. Such a method of watering practiced once or 
twice a week causes the roots to grow deep, while on the 
other hand too frequent watering or superficial waterings 
simply moisten the surface of the ground and stimulate 
the fine roots to come close to the surface where they may 
be killed by the heat. 

Blue Grass will not survive a Kansas Summer with¬ 
out water every few days except on well shaded areas. 
If one plants a Blue Grass lawn he must have ample 
watering facilities. 


68 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


MAKING A BERMUDA GRASS LAWN. 

The very nature of Bermuda Grass is entirely differ¬ 
ent from that of Blue Grass. Bermuda Grass is a creeping 
vine-like plant which sends out roots and blades at inter¬ 
vals along a creeping root-stalk. 

A Bermuda Grass lawn can be most successfully ob¬ 
tained by planting roots and tufts of Bermuda Grass. It 
is seldom that one can get a satisfactory Bermuda Grass 
lawn from the seed. There may also be an advantage in 
propagating Bermuda Grass from roots of acclimated 
plants growing locally than from seed, for much of the 
seed available is of southern origin. 

Bermuda Grass should be planted in the late Spring. 
From May 15 to June 15 seems to be the best time. 

The ground should be well spaded, leveled, and raked. 
If the stand is to be obtained from roots, parallel trenches 



“To make a Bermuda grass lawn plant the roots in parallel trenches 2 to 3 
inches deep. Make the trenches 12 inches apart.” 




LAWNS AND LAWN GRASSES 


69 


2 to 3 inches deep, spaced 9 to 12 inches apart, should 
be made. The roots should be laid in these trenches, end 
to end, and covered with soil. The reason for planting in 
such parallel trenches is to make cultivation and weeding 
easier later. 

If tufts of Bermuda turf are used they should be 
planted in straight rows; the plants about 9 inches apart 
and the rows 12 inches apart. 

The lawn should be watered heavily after the grass 
has been set. 

A common belief is that once Bermuda Grass is set 
out it requires no further care. This is certainly errone¬ 
ous. Constant care is required for the first two months 
after the Bermuda Grass is planted to assist it in its fight 
with crab grass and other native grasses. Crab grass and 
native grasses will certainly kill out the Bermuda Grass 
when the Bermuda Grass is getting established unless they 
are kept hoed out. 

Bermuda Grass will not successfully compete with the 
native grasses without help until it has entirely covered 
the ground. 

Most of the failures with Bermuda Grass are due to 
lack of proper care for the first few months after the grass 
is planted. It should be watered frequently and should 
be continually cultivated if native grasses appear. 

After the Bermuda Grass has become thoroughly es¬ 
tablished and the ground entirely covered nothing can 
compete with it. A well-kept Bermuda lawn is a beautiful 
velvety carpet of green during the hottest weather. It 
requires some water to keep it green, but it has the ad¬ 
vantage of enduring while the owner is on a vacation or 
elsewhere. Under such neglect it may turn brown and 
be apparently dead, but a copious watering will promptly 
bring it back to its former perfection. 

The principal objection to Bermuda Grass is its char- 


70 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


acteristic of turning dead and brown at the first heavy 
frost. It invariably kills back to the deeper roots every 
Winter. Temperatures lower than 5° below zero will 
often kill out large areas of Bermuda Grass. 

A HARDY BERMUDA GRASS. 

For the past two years the Board of Park Commis¬ 
sioners lias been experimenting with a hardy strain of 
Bermuda Grass. This so-called “hardy” Bermuda Grass 
is somewhat coarser than the Bermuda Grass with which 
we are most familiar, and it has stouter root stalks. 

Observations thus far have indicated that this so- 
called “hardy” Bermuda Grass will very likely endure 
lower temperatures without injury than the ordinary Ber¬ 
muda Grass. The tests and trials of this variety have not 
yet progressed far enough to draw any definite conclusions 
or to justify any recommendations at this time. 

During the Winter of 1924 lawns planted with this 
hardy Bermuda Grass endured temperatures of 12° below 
zero, without injury. Many lawns planted to the ordinary 
Bermuda Grass were seriously damaged by this severe 
cold. 


CHAPTER IX. 

THE PLANTING OF TREES, SHRUBS AND FLOWERS. 

TT7HEN your trees and shrubs arrive the roots will 
W doubtless be packed in straw, and the bundles 
wrapped in burlap. The first thing to do is to get the 
roots into the ground. Every minute the roots are ex¬ 
posed to the air the life and future growth of the plants 
are jeopardized. 

If you are not ready to plant the trees and shrubs in 
their permanent location they may be heeled out tempor¬ 
arily until the permanent planting place is ready. Heeling 
out is really temporary planting. 

HEELING OUT TREES AND SHRUBS. 

To properly heel out trees and shrubs one should 
make a shallow trench, 12 to 24 inches deep, at least deep 
enough to cover the roots with 4 inches of dirt. The straw 
should be removed from the roots, the bundles cut, and 
each tree or shrub heeled out separately as close together 
as possible, but far enough apart so that any shrub or tree 
may be later removed without disturbing the ones near it. 

Shovel the dirt back into the trench and water heavily. 
The purpose of watering is to carry the dirt down com¬ 
pactly about the roots and eliminate air pockets. Trees 
and shrubs thus carefully heeled out will keep in good 
condition for weeks. Should the weather be exceptionally 
dry they may require water every 30 days. 

Although trees and shrubs may keep well when care¬ 
fully heeled-out, it is best to plant as soon as they are 
received. 


72 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


PLANTING SHADE TREES 

The best time to plant Shade Trees is in the late Fall 
or early Winter. Trees planted at this time get their 
roots well established, in fact the roots may grow some¬ 
what during the Winter. 

But Shade Trees may be planted at any time during 
the Winter or early Spring, when the ground is not frozen 
and the temperature is above freezing. While Fall and 
early Winter planting is the best the trees can be planted 
until April 1st. But the earlier they go into the ground the 
more satisfactory the results will be, and the better will be 
their chances of survival. 

PREPARING SHADE TREE HOLES. 

For the average Shade Tree of 2 inches in diameter a 
tree hole 4 feet square and 2% feet deep is the proper size. 
In locations where the soil is poor or the ground is of a 
clay or gumbo nature the original soil should be replaced 
with good loam. The loam used in replacing the original 
soil should be light and not sticky. 

In clay or gumbo soil it is generally necessary to make 
an exceptionally deep hole, 4 or 5 feet deep, and fill the 
bottom of the hole two feet deep with rock or broken con¬ 
crete. The tree should be planted above this rock in new 
soil. The rock so placed will act as a sort of dry well and 
will prevent the saturation of the soil about the roots. 
Where such provision is not made for draining the water 
away from the tree roots the soil is likely to sour or be¬ 
come saturated with water, which may result in the death 
of the tree. 


CUTTING RACK THE TOP. 

the purpose of cutting back the top of a tree when 
transplanting is to start a symmetrical head, and to re¬ 
establish the balance between the roots and the top. When 



‘Cut back the top by removing one-third to one-half of the branches. Cover 
the roots with soil and water heavily. Then shovel in the remaining dirt.”’ 














74 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


the tree grew in the nursery the roots were of sufficient 
number and size to supply the entire top with sap. But 
when the tree was dug up preparatory to transplanting 
many of the roots were cut away. So, in order to restore 
the balance between the roots and top, it is necessary to 
cut the top back so the reduced root system will be able to 
sustain the top. The proper cutting back generally re¬ 
moves about one-half to two-thirds of the limbs and twigs 
composing the original top. 

Before planting all damaged and broken roots should 
be cut off' so as to leave a clean, smooth cut. 

HOW TO PLANT. 

The roots must not be permitted to dry out during the 
interval of removing from the heeling ground and the time 
of planting. 

When the hole has been prepared, set the tree care¬ 
fully in it so that it is standing in the hole at the same 
depth as it grew in the nursery. Straighten out the roots 
when they are tangled, and carefully shovel and tamp the 
soil about the roots. 

When the roots are just covered water heavily. The 
purpose of this watering is to carry the soil down about 
the roots, and eliminate air pockets. Then shovel in the 
remaining dirt, leaving a depression about the tree to 
catch the rain. 

Manure should never be used in the tree holes or 
about the roots of the newly-planted trees. 

WATERING NEWLY-PLANTED TREES. 

It will probably not be necessary to water the trees 
until after the leaves appear. Trees planted in sandy or 
light soil should be watered about once a week during 
the growing season, using about a barrel of water each 
time. 



“When planting in clay or gumbo soil put two feet of broken rock in the 
bottom of the hole to drain the water so it will not stand about the roots.” 













76 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


Trees planted in gumbo or clay soil are more often 
killed by too much or too frequent watering than by not 
enough water. Trees planted in such heavy soils should 
be watered once every two weeks, using a great deal of 
water at one time. The watering of trees in heavy soil will 
have to be determined by the owner—by carefully watch¬ 
ing the trees for indications of decline. 

During the Summer the space about the trees should 
be kept cultivated to a distance of 2 feet from the trunk, 
and grass or weeds should not be permitted to grow close 
to the tree. 


PLANTING EVERGREENS. 

Evergreens can he most satisfactorily planted in the 
Spring. 

Evergreens should always be purchased balled and 
burlapped, (abbreviation B & B), which means that the 
tree is dug with a ball of the soil in which it is growing 
surrounding the roots. This ball and roots are bound in 
burlap. 

The hole should be of suf¬ 
ficient size to accommodate 
the ball with plenty of room 
on either side. When ready 
to plant lay the ball in the 
hole, cut the string holding 
the burlap, and lay the bur¬ 
lap out on the bottom of the 
hole. Then proceed as in the 
case of Shade Trees, but be 
careful not to break the ball 
of dirt about the roots. The 
burlap will rot in a few 
weeks. But the burlap should 

never be left about the ball when the tree is planted. 

No manure should be put about the roots. 



PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS 


77 


PLANTING SHRURS 

Shrubs should be planted in groups or masses. Be¬ 
fore planting, the ground should be spaded 18 inches deep 
and well-rotted manure, or fertilizer, should be thor¬ 
oughly spaded in so that it is thoroughly mixed with the 
soil. 

But green manure should not be used in the planting 
of shrubs for it is likely to burn the roots or cause the 
soil to sour. 

It is difficult to state any rule for the distances apart 
which shrubs should be placed. In general, however, 
shrubs which attain a height of 6 to 8 feet should be 
planted about 5 to 6 feet apart, those growing 3 to 5 feet 
tall should be set 3 to 5 feet apart. 

Before making the holes for the shrubs set stakes in 
the ground to indicate the position of each shrub and ad¬ 
just the stakes until the desired arrangement is obtained. 

The holes should be large enough to accommodate all 
the roots with space to provide for the future growth of 
the roots. 

Shrubs should be cut back and thinned out before 
planting, as in the case of shade trees. 

In the planting of shrubs the procedure is much the 
same as in the case of shade trees. The shrub should be 
placed in the hole at the same depth it grew in the nursery. 
The roots should be straightened out so they are not 
cramped or tangled, and the fine top-soil should be placed 
about the roots by hand. Care should be taken that no 
air pockets are left about the roots. When the roots are 
entirely covered but the hole not entirely filled with dirt, 
water should be poured into the hole. Then the filling of 
the hole should be completed with dry soil. 

Where the soil is heavy, or of a clay or gumbo nature, 
it is sometimes too “tight” for the roots to penetrate, and 
it becomes hard on top. This condition may be corrected 
by mixing some sand with the soil when it is being spaded 





Wm. 

jvW 

W 


n 



lj| 


Bright, sun-filled days of the long Kansas Summer afford ideal conditions for 
success in growing all aquatic and water-margin loving plants. Few localities outside 
of the Atlantic Coast States between New York and Washington can compete with 
local results obtainable by application of intelligent treatment. Less care is required 
by the water garden than for any other garden area. 






PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS 


79 


preparatory to planting, and then after the shrubs are set 
out the beds may be covered with about an inch of sand, 
which can be worked into the soil, during the Summer, 
when cultivating. In a few months the sand will work 
well below the surface and it will have a remarkably 
beneficial effect on the shrubs and plants. 

PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

Herbaceous perennials are handled in very much the 
same way as shrubs. The tall plants should be arranged 
in the background and the smaller ones in front. If the 
beds are to be seen from all sides plant the taller ones in 
the middle of the bed. 

The ground should be spaded to a depth of 2 feet and 
enriched with well-rotted manure, or fertilizer, well mixed 
with the soil. If the soil is heavy or tight, sand may be 
added as in the case of shrubs. 

If possible planting should be done a cloudy day. 
Make the holes sufficiently large to take all the roots with¬ 
out crowding, and loosen enough earth on the sides to 
provide for future growth of the roots. Put the well pul¬ 
verized top-soil about the roots, water heavily, and then 
complete the planting with dry soil. 

If a hot spell follows the planting, it is a good plan to 
cover the ground over the roots with leaves or some other 
mulch to prevent the soil from baking or drying out. 

CARE AFTER PLANTING. 

Shrubs and herbaceous plants should be planted close 
enough so that when the plants reach their mature growth 
the ground will be almost entirely shaded. Such an ar¬ 
rangement will conserve the soil moisture and tend to keep 
out weeds. 

Watering at the right time is necessary and import- 



Perennials are the most satisfactory of garden flowers. 
















PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS 


81 


ant. But proper cultivation is more important than proper 
watering. A dust mulch should be maintained on all 
shrub and flower beds during the summer. 

When the beds are watered they should be watered 
heavily, and thoroughly cultivated the following day. 
Where the ground is heavy and of a clay or gumbo nature 
the common mistake is to water too much and too often, 
thereby damaging the plants. Constant hoeing and culti¬ 
vation will reduce greatly the amount of water required 
and is much better for the plant. 


CHAPTER X. 

PLANTING OF FLOWER SEEDS. 

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 

"PLANTS are reproduced in two ways, by seeds and 
vegetatively. 

Vegetative propagation is the multiplication of a plant 
by taking some portion of its root, stem or leaf and grow¬ 
ing a new plant from this portion. “Slipping” house plants 
is a common form of vegetative propagation. 

Some plants have been propagated vegetatively for so 
many generations that they have practically lost their 
ability to produce seed. Others can only be propagated 
true to the type of the parent plant by vegetative means. 
Hence the recommendation concerning certain Perennials 
in the lists of flowers that plants be purchased, for only 
the florist and nurseryman have the facilities for exten¬ 
sive vegetative propagation. 

STARTING FLOWER SEEDS IN-DOORS. 

The seeds of flowers recommended in this publication 
can be successfully sown directly out-of-doors, where the 
description of the seed indicates that the plant is grown 
from seed. But much quicker and more satisfactory re¬ 
sults can be obtained with most flower seeds if they are 
first started in-doors in pots or flats, except perhaps Cos¬ 
mos and Annual Poppy, which should be sown directly 
out-of-doors. Seeds started in-doors a month before the 
time they are usually planted out-of-doors and later trails- 


PLANTING OF FLOWER SEEDS 


83 


planted to their permanent location, will result in heavier 
plants, will give quicker and more satisfactory results, 
the spacing of plants in the beds can be better arranged, 
and there will be a more economical use of the seed. 

A satisfactory receptacle for starting seeds in-doors is 
a wooden box 12 by 18 inches and 21/ 2 inches deep. Such 
a box is called a “flat”. 

The flat should be filled to about 1 inch from the top 
with good soil mixed with a little sand, and the seeds scat¬ 
tered over the surface and pressed into the soil to a depth 
of about four times the diameter of the seed. The dirt 
should be kept moist (Not wet). A pane of window 
glass set over the top of the flat with a small space for 
ventilation left at one corner will accelerate the germina¬ 
tion of the seeds. The flat should be kept in a well lighted 
place, where it will get sunlight all day, especially after 
the seeds have germinated. The temperature should aver¬ 
age 60 to 70 degrees. The glass should be removed after 
the seeds are above the ground. 

When the second leaves appear the seedlings should 
be transplanted to another flat. The little plants should 
be about 1 inch apart in the flats. If they are permitted 
to remain in the flats in which the seeds germinated they 
are likely to become weak spindling plants. 

Before transplanting to their permanent beds they 
should be “hardened off”, that is, the flats should be set 
out-of-doors during the day for several days and kept in 
a moderately cool place at night. 

After all danger of frost is over (in this section about 
May 1), the plants can be transplanted to the 
permanent bed. Preparatory to planting, the ground 
should be spaded to a depth of 20 inches, well-rotted 
manure or fertilizer thoroughly worked into the soil, and 
the top-soil thoroughly pulverized. If possible the bed 


84 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


should be well watered the night before the transplanting 
is to be done so the soil will be in the best possible condi¬ 
tion to receive the plants. 


The following table indicates the number of plants 
which can be set in a circular bed of a certain size: 


Diameter 

6 in. 

12 in. 

18 in. 

24 in. 

(feet) 

apart 

apart 

apart 

apart 

4 

50 

13 

7 


6 

118 

30 

15 

”S 

8 

206 

52 

25 

13 

10 

325 

82 

40 

20 

12 

456 

115 

57 

30 

14 

615 

155 

78 

40 

16 

810 

202 

100 

50 

18 

1020 

255 

126 

64 

20 

1260 

315 

156 

78 


A square bed will take about the same number of plants. For an oval 
bed, add length and breadth and divide by 2. For example, an oval 9 feet long 
by 7 feet wide will require same number of plants as circular bed 8 feet in 
diameter. 


PLANTING FLOWER SEEDS OUT-OF-DOORS. 


Most Rower seeds can be safely planted out-of-doors 
after May 1st. The ground should be prepared as de¬ 
scribed above, the seeds sowed in drills to a depth of about 
4 times the diameter of the seeds, and the soil pressed 
down well about the seeds. 


The plants will perhaps come up too thick for perma¬ 
nent arrangement, and so they should be thinned to the 
proper distance. While no accurate rule can be given as 
to the proper distance apart the plants should be thinned 
the following spacing is about right for most plants: 


Height 3 to 

6 

inches. 

Height 6 to 

12 

inches. 

Height 1 to 

1 % 

feet. 

Height 2 to 

3 

feet. 

Height 3 to 

4 

feet. 

Height 4 to 

5 

feet. 


Thin or transplant to 4 inches apart. 

Thin or transplant to 6 inches apart. 

Thin or transplant to 8 inches apart. 

Thin or transplant to 14 inches apart. 

Thin or transplant to 18 inches apart. 

Thin or transplant to 22 inches apart. 


This table is prepared for plants of average spread. 
Tall slender plants such as Hollyhocks should be planted 
closer than the table indicates. Plants having an excep¬ 
tionally wide-spreading habit of growth should be planted 
somewhat farther apart than indicated in the table. 














CHAPTER XI. 

PRUNING TREES AND SHRURS. 

PRUNING SHADE TREES. 

'T'HE best time to prune shade trees is during the early 

Summer. During the Summer one is best able to dis¬ 
tinguish dead twigs and branches from the live ones. The 
limbs hang lower during the summer due to the weight of 
the leaves, so it is possible to better determine the amount 
to be cut off to permit passage under the trees. The cuts 
heal better when the trimming is done during the Summer. 

Heavy pruning and topping should be done only in the 
early Winter when the tree is dormant. But a tree should 
never be topped except upon the advice of, and by an 
experienced man. 

Maples and other trees in which the sap runs early 
should not be trimmed or topped between January and 
May. When such trees are trimmed after the sap starts 
to run they will often “bleed” for days. 

Next to shaping the tree the principal precaution to be 
taken in trimming shade trees is to make the cuts properly. 
All cuts should be made as close to the trunk as possible. 
Where cuts are not made close to the trunk a stub is left 
which will soon start to decay. This decay may eventu¬ 
ally reach the center of the tree and result in its early 
decline. The so-called knot holes in wood and lumber are 
due to the decay of stubs of branches. 

Where cuts are properly made (that is, when the 
limbs are cut close to the trunk and no stub is left) the 



PRUNING SHADE TREES. 

1. Remove a limb with two cuts. Make the first cut about 2 feet from the trunk. 

2. Make the second cut close to the trunk, holding the stub until the limb is severed. 

3. Cut completed and tarred. Note that no stub is left. 

4. Showing how a cut heals. This picture was taken 2 years after cut was made. 






PRUNING TREES AND SHRUBS 8 _ 87 

cuts will soon start to heal over, and in a few years the 
wound will be completely covered. 

In the trimming of Maples and certain thin-barked 
trees care must be taken not to cut too many limbs out 
of the South and West portions of the tree, otherwise the 
hot sun will strike the upper part of the trunk and the 
large limbs which were previously shaded, with a conse¬ 
quent scalding and killing of the bark. 

Branches should always be removed with two cuts to 
avoid tearing the bark beneath the branch when the sev¬ 
ered branch falls. The first cut should be made 2 or 3 
feet from the trunk. After the limb has been severed the 
stub can be held while the second cut is made close to the 
trunk. Sometimes it is better to hold the stub with a rope 
while making the second cut. This practice of removing 
branches with two cuts will always result in better cuts 
and avoid the tearing of the bark when the limb falls. 

All cuts larger than a silver dollar should be painted 
with tar. Thick paint or white lead and oil makes a good 
protective covering where tar is not to be had. This 
dressing will prevent decay until the bark grows over the 
wound. 


PRUNING EVERGREENS. 

Ordinarily Evergreens require little pruning. The 
branches of evergreens should be permitted to grow to the 
ground and evergreens should not be trimmed up as in 
the case of deciduous trees. 

The best way to prune evergreens is to shape the 
plant by cutting back each protruding shoot, leaving the 
shorter and weaker branches untouched. The principal 
trimming should be done in early Spring just before 
growth starts, but plants can be improved in appearance 
by slight pruning in the Summer, whenever irregular 
growth is produced. 


88 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


PRUNING SHRURS. 

The pruning of flowering shrubs requires much 
thought, patience and skill. Ordinarily most shrubs need 
little pruning except the removal of old and dead canes 
and branches. 

Before starting to prune any shrub one should study 
its shape and habit of growth. Some shrubs have an up¬ 
right habit of growth, others have a drooping or pendulous 
habit. The method of properly pruning the former would 
utterly ruin the shape of the latter. 

The directing thought in all pruning should be to 
influence the plant’s growth into its natural form, to so 
prune that when the work is completed the plant will look 
as if nothing had been cut out of it. Many shrubs are 
ruined by clipping the whole shrub across the top as one 
would a hedge. Shrubs with graceful drooping branches 
will not stand this sort of treatment. 

TIME TO PRUNE SHRUBS. 

The time of year to prune shrubs depends entirely 
upon the species. 

Shrubs which flower on the last year’s wood should 
be pruned in the late Spring or early Summer, immedi¬ 
ately after they have finished blooming. Shrubs which 
flower on the new growth should be pruned during the 
Winter when they are dormant. 

If shrubs are not pruned at the right time they may 
be weakened and their growth impaired. Various shrubs 
which are appreciated because of their attractive flowers 
may be so affected by injudicious pruning that they will 
not blossom for several seasons. Inexperienced persons 
should not be permitted to prune shrubs except under 
competent supervision. 

The following table gives the time for pruning some 
of the common shrubs: 


PRUNING TREES AND SHRURS 


89 


PROPER TIME TO PRUNE FLOWERING SHRUBS. 

Althea—winter, while dormant. 

Coral Berry—January to March, while dormant. Requires 
little pruning. 

Elder—summer, when through blooming. 

Forsythia—summer, when through blooming. 

Honeysuckle—(bush)—winter, while dormant. 

Lilac—summer, when through blooming. 

Mock Orange—summer, when through blooming. 

Red Bud—late spring, when through blooming. 

Russian Olive—winter, while dormant. 

Roses—early spring, while dormant, except climbing roses, 
which should be pruned when through blooming. 

Spirea Van Houttei—summer, when through blooming. 
Tamarix—cut to 6 inches above the ground in early spring 
when dormant. 


CHAPTER XII. 

INSECT PESTS AND PLANT DISEASES. 

j\ /TOST insect pests and plant diseases are controlled by 
spraying or dusting the infested plants with certain 
chemicals. Hand sprayers can be purchased for the 
spraying of plants, shrubs, and small trees. These spray¬ 
ers are inexpensive and are a real necessity for every 
gardener. Your Forestry Department can handle the 
spraying of larger trees. 

APHIDS OR PLANT LICE. 

Small, soft-bodied insects, generally not much larger 
than the head of a pin. Various colors, green, black, blue, 
purple, etc. They feed by sucking the sap, and when they 
attack the leaves often cause them to curl up and shrivel. 
Aphids attack many kinds of trees, shrubs, and plants. 

Control: Spray with a solution of 1 pint of “Black- 
Leaf 40“ (Nicotine Sulfate) and 4 pounds of laundry soap 
to 100 gallons of water (Formula for spraying smaller 
quantities will be found on the package of “Black-Leaf 
40”). Only the insects actually hit by the spray are killed, 
so the spraying must be very thoroughly done. Several 
sprayings are sometimes required for effective results. 

Sometimes the Aphids can be washed off by repeated 
applications of a strong stream of water from the garden 
hose. On small plants a strong solution of laundry soap 
will often be effective. But Aphides multiply rapidly and 
if all are not killed there will soon be another infestation. 


INSECT PESTS AND PLANT DISEASES 


91 


BAG WORM OR BASKET WORM. 

This peculiar insect attacks and often kills Ever¬ 
greens. It also attacks Maple, Box Elder, and other trees 
and plants. It spends its life in a sort of a bag about 2 
inches long, which it securely fastens to the twigs. 

Control: Spray with powdered arsenate of lead, 2 
pounds to 50 gallons of water. For small quantities 1% 
teaspoons to 1 gallon of water. 

BORERS. 

These are insects which burrow into and feed upon 
the inner bark and wood of trees, shrubs, and plants. 

Control: Spraying is not effective. All means of 
control are laborious and tedious. Results may some¬ 
times be obtained by digging the borers out with a knife. 
A wire hooked at the end may sometimes be inserted into 
the burrows and the insects crushed. 

Carbon bisulphide seems to be the most effective rem- 
edy. This chemical is highly inflammable, dangerous, 
and disagreeable to handle. Saturate a small piece of cot¬ 
ton with carbon bisulphide and insert it into the hole 
where the borer is working. Then immediately plug the 
hole with putty. The vapor will generally kill the borer. 

CANKER WORMS, MEASURING WORMS, CATERPILLARS. 

Most of these pests are leaf feeders and are controlled 
by spraying with powdered arsenate of lead at the rate of 2 
pounds to 50 gallons of water. For small quantities of 
spray use lt /2 teaspoons to 1 gallon of water. 

CUT WORMS. 

These insects can be controlled by scattering a poison 
bait about the infested area, prepared as follows: 1 
quart bran, 1 tablespoonful of molasses, 1 teaspoonful 
Paris Green, and enough water to make a thick mash. 


92 


PLANTING HOME GROUNDS 


GRASSHOPPERS. 

Bran 20 pounds, Paris Green 1 pound, syrup 2 quarts, 
3 oranges, water 3 y 2 gallons. Mix the bran and Paris 
Green, dry, in a washtub. Squeeze the juice from the or¬ 
anges into the water and grind up the peelings and throw 
in also. Dissolve the syrup in the water and make a thick 
mash with the bran and Paris Green. Spread this bait 
about the infested area in the morning. The grasshop¬ 
pers will feed upon it in preference to most other things. 

MEALY BUGS. 

Small soft-bodied insects covered with a white waxy 
secretion; generally found in the axils of the leaves. Often 
found on plants which have been grown in a greenhouse. 

Control: Same treatment as for Aphids. 


MILDEW. 

A disease attacking Roses, especially the climbing 
varieties. The leaves shrivel and seem to be covered with 
a whitish powder. To control this disease measures 
should be taken just as soon as the leaves appear and be¬ 
fore the plant shows any symptoms of being attacked. 

Control: Dust the foliage frequently with Rowers of 
sulphur, or spray frequently with Bordeaux Mixture. 
There is also an insecticide known as “All in One” for 
dusting, which is effective for most Rose pests. 


RUST. 

A disease attacking Hollyhocks especially, causing the 
leaves to turn brown and assume a sort of rusty appear¬ 
ance. Spray with Bordeaux Mixture (which can be ob¬ 
tained at seed stores), mixed according to directions on 
the package. Spraying should be done as a preventive 
measure before the disease appears. Several applications 
are generally necessary. 


INSECT PESTS AND PLANT DISEASES 


93 


RED SPIDER. 

An almost microscopic mite which attacks Evergreens 
especially. The trees or plants affected start to decline, 
for no apparent reason, but a close examination will often 
reveal numbers of minute mites on the twigs and leaves. 
There is generally a sort of silvery web over some of the 
twigs. 

Control: Dust with flowers of sulphur. Several ap¬ 
plications are generally required for results. 

SAN JOSE SCALE. 

Attacks fruit trees and certain shrubs, causing scale¬ 
like spots about the size of a pin-head, grayish-brown in 
color, under which the insect lives. The damage is done 
by the insect sucking the sap. 

Control: Spray in Winter or early Spring before the 
buds open, with lime-sulphur solution, mixed according to 
directions accompanying the package. Spraying must be 
thoroughly done as only the insects hit by the spray are 
killed. 


WER WORM (Fall Web Worm). 

The caterpillars make a sort of a web in which hun¬ 
dreds may feed. Attacks Walnut, Sumach, Ailanthus, and 
other trees. Generally two generations a year, one in 
early Summer, and the second in early Fall. Where there 
are only a few webs the webs may be destroyed and the 
caterpillars crushed. Where very numerous spray with 
arsenate of lead as for caterpillars. 































































































































































































































































































































































